Posted by Kelsey Sauer on September 25th, 2017
Posted by Kelsey Sauer on August 3rd, 2017
Everyone needs a little wrap this time of year. We dress for the heat of summer and then go into a restaurant or shopping center where we freeze and wish we had brought in a light wrap. I am excited to show you my summer wrap. This season fashion is referring to the wrap as a kimono. Wrap or kimono, either way you will want to make this one. I selected this pattern because it was a boxy fit so it lends itself to draping softly on the body. It will look great casual or dressy. I choose a beautiful 100% cotton fabric by Clothworks. The print reminded me of an English garden. With the softness of the fabric and the print, I imagined myself sitting in that garden having afternoon tea.
The pattern we will use in class is Pattern: KwikSew K4208 available in our pattern section. This is a beginner to intermediate skill level project. I hope to see you in my class 🙂
Posted by administrator on July 21st, 2017
Hello there, it’s Kerrie-you may recognize me from the Bridal Department. For about ten years, I sewed as a hobby, but a few years ago, I learned to sew professionally after taking a sewing program at Orlando Tech. I love making clothes and am obsessed with all the fabrics at the Sewing Studio!
There is nothing like hunting for a new fabric! It is always an exciting part of beginning any sewing project. One of the many reason I love the Sewing Studio is the thousands of fabric bolts available to choose from. With fewer and fewer brick and mortar fabric stores around, I appreciate being able to handle a fabric in person before purchasing it. There is simply no substitute for feeling the fabric’s weight, and texture, not to mention seeing the color in person to make sure it is the right choice for your project, especially if you are trying to coordinate multiple fabrics!
I’ve had my eye on this selection of Jana knits for quite some time, and now they are on sale! They are available in four colors and have a weight and stretch similar to a Ponte knit. The fabric has a beautiful floral lattice design. McCall’s 7085, a simple sheath dress pattern with neckline options and contour darts, was used to create a store sample. The dress was also lined with a white interlock, which is a perfect lining for double knits. To save time and give a nice look to the inside of the dress, seam allowances were serged and the hem was coverstitched using MaxiLock thread with Maxi Stretch thread in the upper looper.
Notions for this dress include: hook and eye, invisible zipper, Guterman polyester thread, Maxi lock serger thread, and knit stay tape at the shoulder seams and zipper.
Posted by Kathryn Conte on June 10th, 2017
By Kathryn and Lena Conte
One of my good friends spent a lazy Sunday afternoon spending time with her Daughter making up awesome new shoes, and posted the cutest picture on Facebook. I knew I had to do the same with Lena! So we each created our shoes with different methods, while laughing and joking the whole time!
To make this project you will need:
Tulip Fabric Markers OR Sharpie Markers
DecoArt SoSoft Fabric paint in Ultra White and Glimmer Glitter
Fine tip paint brush
Cotton Swab size Paint Brush
White Canvas sneakers (Walmart or Target)
I am no artist, but I wanted swirly Milky-Way looking galaxies, and swaths of cosmic dust clouds. I wanted a bit of definition between my colors, so I used our TULIP Neon Fabric Markers. I stared at the toes and worked my way around to the heels. I did some circular clouds and some wavy lines.
Lena used Sharpie markers for her sneakers. She colored quarter sized blots of colors, some oval shaped blots, and others like a rounded lower case n. She was heavy handed and really let the Sharpie soak in. Lena started at the sides, and worked her way all the way around.
Final Step For Both Methods: Once you have covered your sneakers in color, you fill a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Use your eye dropper to fully soak your sneakers with the rubbing alcohol. This will soften the edges for fabric maker shoes, and will bleed colors into one another with the Sharpie markers. Let your shoes dry completely to the touch . Put a pea size dollop of the white fabric paint in a small cup. Take your fine tip paint brush and make star specks and a few asterisks. Let your stars dry completely. Put a grape size dollop of the Glimmer glitter fabric paint in a small cup. Take the cotton swab sized paint brush and fully coat or glaze your entire shoe. Wait for the shoes to dry, pull off the painters tape and you are done!
Posted by Mary Jeanine Ibarguen on May 26th, 2017
This colorful quilt is a great way to use your favorite Kaffe Fassett fabrics. Of course, you can use another fabric collection or make it totally scrappy. Read this tutorial, and learn about
Supplies you’ll need:
The pattern calls for 12” finished blocks, but I made them smaller (8 ¾” square). I cut the wavy tiles using the 6” wavy template. Having the smallest sized rotary blade really helps get around those waves. I used what I had, the 28mm blade, but could tell that the smaller blade would have been better.
I tested using fusible web on the entire wavy tile, and then just on the edges. I found that with the entire wavy tile backed with fusible web, the block was heavy and stiff. So instead I cut a bunch of 1” wide strips of the Heat-n-Bond Lite and just fused the edges of the wavy tile.
I overcut the wavy squares at 6.5”, then applied the web to the perimeter, and THEN cut with the wavy ruler:
Audition the tiles on the 8 ¾” background squares. Here I’m auditioning the wavy tiles and also possible borders:
Once I peeled off the Heat-n-Bond release paper, I took the big (8 ¾”) background square and folded it in half both ways, lightly pressing folds on the four sides at the halfway mark to help with centering the applique. Now lay out the background square on your ironing board and carefully position the applique so it is centered, using the fold marks on all four sides. (I figured this trick out about 10 blocks in, and some of those off-kilter blocks ended up on the back of the quilt. Off to the store for more fabric, lol)
Press those wavy tiles down onto the background squares. Now to stitch all these wavy tiles down. I wanted a little extra help stabilizing the back of the blocks while I stitched, so I cut strips of tear-away stabilizer
And sewed a pretty buttonhole stitch down around the edges of wavy tile.
At this point, I cut away the excess background fabric in the center that wasn’t fused to the wavy tile. This makes the final quilt that much lighter. I also tore off the stabilizer paper on the back.
I sorted the blocks by the color of the tiles, so I could keep the top thread the same thread color on the machine as long as possible (eg: sew all the pink ones with pink thread, then the blue ones with blue thread, etc)
Buttonhole stitch: Test out stitch width and length on scraps of fabric to find what looks good. I narrowed my stitch width as I got to the points, then widened again after turning the corner points.
Its time to lay out your blocks. I like to play with the layout, taking photos as I go. I try to distribute colors and designs as much as possible. Use your camera/phone to get a bird’s eye view; you don’t even need to snap the photo, just look. If you can get the black-n-white filter on your camera to work, that helps you to distribute color values evenly.
Sew the blocks together. Here’s a good tutorial on “Webbing the Quilt Top”, a technique I use all the time.
I used all the scraps leftover from making the blocks to create my “piano key” border. The strips are cut all sorts of widths, and they all started at 6.5” long.
I’m including my handout for my “Easy Schmeasy Mitered Borders” in case you want to miter your borders instead of sewing them on left/right/top/bottom.
First, you must decide if a quilt actually needs mitered borders. Not all quilts do. If a quilt has lots of 45º triangles, it’s a good bet the mitered corners will add to the quilt’s appeal.
If a quilt has more than one border, I like to sew the long pieces together, and then do one miter in each corner, as opposed to mitering each border as you add it to the quilt top. With my technique, it’s not difficult to do.
Sew the border set onto the quilt top, stopping ¼” before the end of the seam, on all 8 corners. Use a pin to mark that place if you need to.
Press the seams as sewn, then hand press open, then iron/press open. Allow to cool completely before lifting the fabric off the ironing board.
Work on one top-left corner at a time. Lets call the left side ‘A’ and the top side ‘B’. Straighten B out flat. Tuck/fold the end of A into a 45º angle, using your ruler to check that the angle is good. (a great second check is that your excess border fabric should match up perfectly in the back, A on top of B.) Press the angle with the iron and let cool.
Pull back A a bit to see the underside of the angle. Tear off a piece of SaS tape and finger press it (paper side up) to the underside of the angle, about 1/8” from the fold. Press with the iron and let cool. Peel off the paper.
Put A back where it belongs (check again with the 45° line on your ruler) and then press again with the iron and let cool.
Do this for all 4 corners. Trim off the extra fabric.
Sew the miters for extra strength. When you turn the quilt top over, you will see that pressed angle. That is exactly where the stitching goes.
If you have several borders mitered at once, this is such a great way to see from the front that all the borders match up with each other perfectly. Didn’t I tell you this would be easier?
“Quilt as Desired” – what does THAT mean?
Yes, of course, do what makes you happy.
All over design? Check
Quilt by credit card? Check (there’s a list of Longarmers on my website)
Hand quilt or tack the corners? Check or Check
But here’s what I did:
To get started, I stitched-in-the-ditch (SITD) around the inner border, then horizontal and vertical lines between all the blocks. I’ve learned recently that SITD really helps with a neater overall look, plus it helps the spray basting hold on a little longer. I use a walking foot and Wonderfil’s Invisifil thread. This is a 100 weight, very thin poly that we carry in the store. I’ve stocked up with lights, medium and dark “shadow” colors, and am so happy with how they just disappear in the ditch!
Now, I always quilt the borders of my quilts first. Gasp! The quilt police will be knocking on my door any moment now! [insert sarcasm here].
Here’s why I do it and why it works: if the quilt is well basted, you can start anywhere you want to start. So why start on the edges? Well, too many times I’ve had a corner of the excess backing fold back on me, getting caught in the stitches. What a pain.
So if I FMQ just the border first, I can really pay attention to that excess batting and backing, making sure its out where I can see it. Plus it makes a good handle as I FMQ the borders. I keep smoothing the top border with my gloved hand to smooth out any last minute wrinkles.
Once I’ve finished FMQing the borders, I take the whole quilt off my machine, rotary cut off all the excess backing and batting, and go back to finish the FMQ on the rest of the quilt. There, now you know my secret.
For the borders, I did some “ruler work”, which means I used specialized FMQ rulers pushed up next to my ruler work machine FMQ foot. (I quilt on a Juki sit-down longarm machine.) I’m looking forward to many happy hours playing with my starter set of rulers:
Did you notice the little orange suction cup handle? This really helps to hold the ruler down, and then move it to the next part of the quilt. I stole it from my 8.5” Creative Grids ruler, where it usually lives. I may have to get a few more (from The Sewing Studio, natch).
For the 1.5” inner border, I used a little 1” stencil I picked up to use with my Pounce chalk dispenser. Fast and effective.
For the wavy tiles as well as the corners of the blocks, I used my “MJ Flower”, which consists of a doubled circle, and then 5 squiggly petals. I went around the flower twice to give the petals some dimension.
Sleeve, binding and DONE!
I hope you picked up a few new ideas with this tutorial.
Posted by Kelsey Sauer on May 11th, 2017
What better way to spend Mother’s Day than sewing with Mom?! See how Pat and Kelsey will be spending Mother’s Day together this year in this short video they put together! Make sure to spend some time with your Mom sewing, crafting and getting creative this Mother’s Day!!
Posted by Kelsey Sauer on May 1st, 2017
Make Your Own Ironing Board Cover At The Sewing Studio This Friday!
A Post From The Instructor: Caroline Garnier
It is not the first time that I sew a cover for my ironing board, and each time I wonder why I did not do it earlier. It is such an easy project and it is so rewarding when the iron board looks nice and neat.
This time I have chosen Rifle Paper Co, City Maps canvas. I really like this print with all the different cities. It is a canvas and I like its stiffness.
I like my board to be bouncy so I put two layers of batting, secured them to the top with a zigzag stitch.
The edge is finished with a double fold bias tape and an elastic tighten to fit the shape of the board. And voilà , ready for laundry day!
Join us for this fun class THIS Friday! More information here
Posted by Kelsey Sauer on April 28th, 2017
Mermaid Panel By Quilting Treasures Panel is in stock now PLUS there is a free pattern download which we have made available for you below!
This panel is absolutely gorgeous and when made in to a quilt will make that mermaid – loving person you know so so happy!
Find the panel here: http://sewing.net/artworks-iii-24-panel-1649-24986-x.html
Find the free quilt pattern here: artworks_mermaid_final
Posted by Kelsey Sauer on January 12th, 2017
Hi Everyone !
My name is Caroline Garnier, and I am coming to teach a couple of classes at the Sewing Studio, so I thought it would
be a good idea to introduce myself.
If you ask me where I am from, I might make a pause: on my passport it says France but since I have moved so many
times, lived in many places around the world, I now say that I am from where my family is, and at the moment it is
I am a knitter, an embroiderer, a quilter (member of the Orlando Modern Quilt Guild) and of course I sew my own
I love making garments for my girls, any pattern out of the envelop fit them. I love sewing for myself too, and
learning how to do simple pattern alterations has boosted my sewing successes. My preference goes to simple
garments with a vintage feel, then I let the fabric makes all the difference. Recently I’ve been enamoured with Les
Fleurs line of fabric, a collaboration between Rifle Paper Co and Cotton + Steel. The fabric is so rich in colours, it
makes every garment special.
What I am most enjoying when sewing a garment, is making sure that the inside is as pretty as the outside. If you
come to a class with me, we will probably use French seams (they are not that scary, and did you know that in
French they are called coutures anglaises, which means English seams?), flat felled seams or Hong Kong seams (I love
this last one, it’s the opportunity to add a pop of colour, a fun print). I know it takes a bit more time, but who does
not love the luxury of a bit of couture finish?
Another thing that made my sewing more enjoyable, is getting organised. I generally start with 2 baskets. In the
first one, the larger one, I gather my pattern, my fabric, thread, interfacing, zipper, any notions that are needed for
the project. In my second basket, the smallest one, I have my tools: special needles, scissors, tweezers, stiletto,
seam reaper, pins, pin cushion, seam gauge… This way, I know that I have everything I need before starting, and I
replace my tools in the basket after each use so I don’t get frustrated looking for them.
Until recently, I used to cut my pattern pieces directly from the pattern envelop. But doing so means that you can
use it only once. Also, I find using the tissue paper on which the pattern is printed too flimsy for me. So I trace all
my pattern on tracing paper. I use wide architect tracing paper, it is stiffer so it lasts longer and I can add any remark on it without risking tearing the paper, the The Sewing Studio sells plain pattern paper & gridded pattern paper by Pellon. Both of these products hold up well, too. Anyway, tracing my patterns has
become a necessity since I start using pdf patterns. If you enroll in the Les Fleurs Basic top, we will go through some
tips for friendly use of pdf patterns. You can enroll in my class here: Les Fleurs Basic Top
The second class I am teaching is the Dottie Angel Apron, which was actually a customer request! You can enroll in my class here: Dottie Angel Apron
I really hope to see you for one of my classes. First because the two garments we’re going to sew are so nice and
accessible projects for even the beginners. Secondly, because I love to share ideas and knowledge, I love to see
which fabrics you’ll pick, which twist you’ll add to your realisation. And at last, because it is fun to play with fabric,
to sew with others and have a very social experience.
If you want to know more about me and what I make, come and give me a visit on my blog Pieces and Love or on my
Posted by Katie Leve on January 9th, 2017
You can stitch up a warm furry vest with Simplicity pattern #8219 and some great fashion fur here at the Sewing Studio. All it takes is about a yard of fur (just $7.00 a yard) and a couple of hours. YES it’s that quick! This pattern has great tips on sewing with fur. You’ll want to use a nice lining like “Mystique” to pair with the weight of the fur and double stitch the pockets for strength and durability. This pattern runs big, so bump it down a size and you’ll be happy with the fit.